Shoe



June 18, 1935. F. P. WAGNER 2,005,071

SHOE

Filed March 3, 1934 2 Sheets-Sheet l Junel8, 1935. F. P. WAGNER 2,005,071

SHOE

Filed March 5, 1934 2 Sheet-Sheeg 2 Fig. 18.

Wren/0r F 2/c/ @MGNEQ Qf/armgy Patented June 18, 1935 PATENT OFFICE SHOE Frederick P. Wagner, St. Louis, Mo., assignor of one-half to Arthur J. Brauer, St. Louis, Mo.

Application March 3, 1934, Serial No. 7131785 7 Claims.

This invention relates generally to shoes, and particularly to an arrangement for eliminating the tendency of pumps to bite at the instep.

It is recognized that shoes of the pump type are extremely difficult to fit, not only because there are no securing devices, such as laces or straps, whereby the shoe may be held on the foot, but also because when the fit is sufliciently snug to prevent the shoe from accidentally coming off there is a general tendency for the throat of the upper to bite into the foot at the instep. This renders the fitting of the shoes of the pump type particularly tedious, and in fact there are many feet which cannot be properly fitted with pumps without them being so large as to come off accidentally or so tight as to be uncomfortable.

The object of the present invention, generally stated, is to provide a shoe of the pump type having sufiicient elasticity at its instep that the tendency to bite into the foot is reduced.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a shoe of the pump type wherein the upper is constructed and arranged in the region of the throat so as to permit considerable stretching.

A further object of this invention is to provide a shoe of the pump type wherein a gore is built into the upper.

A more specific object of this invention is to provide a shoe of the pump type wherein a piece of elastic material is attached directly to the upper but arranged so as to be concealed thereby and wherein the adjacent upper is slit so as to permit substantial stretching against the action of the elastic material.

Other objects will become apparent to those skilled in the art when the following description is read in connection with the accompanying drawings, in which:-

Figure 1 is a plan view showing the pattern of an upper of an opera pump in which the present invention is to be embodied.

Figure 2 is an inside view of the upper of Figure 1 with a strip of elastic material applied thereto in accordance with the present invention.

Figure 3 is a detail view showing a further step inthe procedure of applying the elastic strip in accordance with the present invention.

Figure 4 is a perspective view of the forepart of a shoe embodying the present invention.

Figure 5 is a sectional view taken along 5--5 of Figure 4, and showing the relative arrange- 55 ment of parts in the region of the throat.

' \Figure 6 is a detail view illustrating the application of the elastic material in accordance with a modified procedure.

Figure '7 is a detail view showing the exterior of an upper finished in accordance with the modified procedure of Figure 6.

Figure 8 is a sectional view corresponding to Figure 5, but illustrating the position of the parts in a shoe of the drop top or inseam type.

Figure 9 is a plan view of a quarter section intended for use in a pump of the regent type embodying the present invention.

Figure 10 is a perspective view of the forepart of a regent pump embodying the present invention.

Figure 1 1 is a view showing a modified construction wherein the gore is provided as a separate piece.

Figure 12 is a view of a throat portion of a shoe having the gore of Figure 11 applied thereto.

Figure 13 is a plan view showing the upper 01 Figure 1 with a doubler superimposed thereon.

Figure 14 is an inside View of the throat region of the completed shoe shown in Figure 4 after the extended lining is cut off.

Figure 15 is an exterior view of the upper shown in Figure 2, and particularly illustrating the ends of the edge binding and their relation to the flexible throat of the present invention.

Figure 16 is a sectional view along line l6l6 of Figure 4.

In accordance with the present invention, generally stated, a shoe of the pump type is so constructed and arranged that the upper materials in the region of the throat are permitted to yield or stretch sufficiently so that the tendency for the shoe to bite into the foot at the instep is substantially reduced. In accordance with one embodiment, a strip of resilient material, such for instance as rubber or elastic, maybe built into the upper in the region of the throat and the upper either slit or wrinkled so as to enable it to stretch substantially against the tension of the resilient strip. Such a strip of elastic material may be assembled so as to be concealed by the upper material so that a shoe of good appearance is produced. In order to accomplish this in accordance with one embodiment, an extension is provided on that portion of the upper which is adjacent the throat, which extension may be turned over the elastic material secured thereadjacent so as to conceal the same. Although in the embodiment shown in the accompanying drawings, such a strip of elastic material is shown as applied laterally across the throat of, a shoe, it is to be understood that, to an extent at least,

some of the advantages of that arrangement are obtained by making provision for yielding at other sections of the upper in that region, such for instance as at the sides of the throat.

Referring now particularly to the drawings, there is illustrated in Figure 1 a piece of upper material I cut in accordance with thepattern of an opera pump wherein the vamp and quarter sections are all in one piece. The piece of the upper material I is, in accordance with the present invention, provided with a tab-like extension 2 at the throat, which as shown by the dotted line 3 extends rearwardly of the normal pattern line for such an upper. The dotted line 3, it will be understood, represents the throat line position. In accordance with the embodiment shown in Figure 1 a plurality of slits 4 may be cut in the upper as shown extending across the throat line 3 so as to be substantially perpendicular to the throat line of the finished shoe and permitting substantial stretching in a lateral direction.

A doubler 5 may then be associated with the upper I, as shown in Figure 13. As clearly illustrated at 50 the margin of the doubler is slightly spaced'with reference to the margin of the upper I and at the throat portion the doubler terminates slightly below the base of extension 2 as illustrated.

The piece of upper material I with its associated doubler 5 may be closed at the back in accordance with the usual practice, as shown in Figure 2. Around the opening may be provided the usual binding strip 6 which, in accordance with the present invention terminates at the sides of the extension 2 as shown in Figures 2 and 3 at 36. On the under side of the upper I may then be secured a piece of elastic material I which, as mentioned above, may be virgin rubber, or fabric covered rubber known as elastic. The strip I may be suitably secured to the upper as by adhesive or by stitching and preferably extends beyond the region of slits 4, as shown in Figure 2, so that the ends of the strip I are firmly secured to upper or doubler material which is not so readily yieldable as that wherein the slits 4 are provided. The elastic is connected to the adjacent upper material by adhesive applied over its entire surface along its length or at its ends or in spots as desired. By thus arranging the parts it will be understood that considerable elasticity is imparted in a lateral direetion to thethroat of the shoe so that it is permitted to stretch against the tension of the elastic, the slits opening to permit substantial stretching.

After the strip of elastic I has been applied, as just described, the tab 2 may be turned over the edge of strip 1 as shown in Figure 3 in order to so conceal the elastic strip I that it will not be visible in the finished shoe. The turned over tab 2 may be secured to the adjacent parts by adhesive, stitching or otherwise so as to hold it in the position shown in Figure 3.

The upper may then be lined in accordance with the usual practice and the manufacture of the shoe proceeded with. As shown in Figure 5, a lining 8 which, as justdescribed, may be applied after the tab 2 is turned over the elastic strip I and may extend upwardly above the edge of the upper I in accordance with a well-known practice. In order to attach such a lining to the upper I and its adjunct parts a line of stitching 9 may be run around adjacent the bound edge of upper I so as to connect it with the lining. In accordance with the present invention, however,

the line of stitching adjacent the throat extends cent parts, but it will be understood that when the elastic I is otherwise suitably secured the stitching I0 may extend in front of it in order to permit the maximum stretching at the instep.

In accordance with the usual practice, the lining 8 which, as pointed out above, may extend beyond the margin of upper I and is cut off after the shoe is finished. In view of the fact, however, that adjacent the throat the connecting stitches I0 are disposed substantially ahead of the overturned margin of the upper. some difficulty may be experienced in obtaining a clean cut of the extended lining at this point. Accordingly, the present invention contemplates the provision of an opening, such as II, in the extended lining so as to eliminate the difiicult cutting operation adjacent the line of stitching I0.

Referring now to Figures 6 and 7 a modified procedure is illustrated wherein the slits 4 need not be provided. In accordance with this embodiment the strip of elastic material I is stretched before it is applied to the upper and is cemented or otherwise secured to the upper I while in this stretched condition. The elastic strip while stretched is cemented to the upper so that adhesion is obtained throughout the entire surface over which the tab 2 will be turned. Thereafter the strip may be cut off at lines 31 and the ends beyond the tab pressed into adhesion with the upper. Whenthe elastic is applied in this manner, it is apparent that when the stretching force is released the tendency will be for the elastic to contract and wrinkle the adjacent upper material, as shown in Figure 7. When, however, a foot is inserted in the shoe the elastic will again be tensioned so that the wrinkles shown at I2 in Figure 7 will be pulled out. In accordance with this embodiment the tab or extension 2 may be turned over the adjacent rubber or elastic I in the manner herinbefore'described.

Referring now to Figure 8 the application of the present invention to pumps of the inseam type is illustrated. As is well known in shoes of this type the lining I3 and outside upper I4 are stitched together in inverse relationship, and thereafter invaginated so as to conceal the line of stitching I5. When'the parts are thus invaginated a crease I6 is formed by the turned over upper I4. Such a crease I6 corresponds generally to the crease formed by the turning over of the tab 2 in the embodiments hereinbefore described, and provides a means of concealing a strip of elastic material I'I attached to the inner face of upper material I4. It will be understood that the upper material I4 may be slit in the region of crease I6, as above described, or the elastic I1 may be attached under tension so as to wrinkle the upper and thus provide sufficient yieldability.

Although the upper, as shown in Figures 1, 2 and 4, is for the purpose of illustration, of a type corresponding to that employed in opera pumps, it is to be understood that the features of the present invention are applicable as well as to other types of shoes, such for instance as the regent type of pumps. In applying the features of the present invention to regent pumps, the tab-like extension 2 may be provided as a part of:.a. quarter pattern l8, as shown in Figure 9, the quarter pattern having an extension l9 around the throat of the shoe as shown. A series :of slits 4 may be provided, as above described, and the elastic strip attached in the manner described with reference to Figure 3 after the quarter sections have been secured to the vamp sections in accordance-with the usual practice. When arranged in this manner the upper may be lasted to produce a shoe, such as shown in Figure 10. It will be understood that instead of slitting the upper at the base of tab 2, as shown in Figure 9, the elastic may be applied under tension so as to Wrinkle the upper in this position. 'Moreover, instead of providing the extension I9 and tab 2 as an integral part of section l8, it will .be understood that the extension I9 with the tab 2 may be a separate piece of material adapted to be stitched at opposite sides to the respective quarter sections, or each of the quarter sections may be provided with an extension suflicient to form half of the tab 2.

Moreover, in some cases the strip of elastic may be attached to the exterior of the folded over tab 2, the overlying creased slit portion 4 concealing the elastic sufiiciently.

Although the embodiments hereinbefore described have been such that the elastic has been applied directly to the shoe upper material and a part of the upper turned over to conceal the same, it is apparent that some of the advantages of this invention may be availed of by mounting the elastic on a separate piece of backing material which may be arranged so as to conceal it. As illustrating one manner of carrying out the invention in this form, a piece of material, such as leather 2| may be provided having a portion 22 corresponding to the tab 2 of the embodiments hereinbefore described. The piece 2| may also have laterally extending wings which, as shown in Figures 11 and 12, are arranged to extend around to the sides of the throat of the shoe, as shown at 23 in Figure 12. The piece of material 2| provides a backing to which may be adhesively secured the strip of elastic 2'! and the extension 22 may be turned over to the position illustrated in full lines as shown in Figure 11 so as to con-' ceal the elastic. As in accordance with the embodimentshereinbefore described, a series of slits 24 is provided-to permit yielding of the backing piece 2| where it is creased.

The assembly just described may be secured to the shoe by stitching it in at the time the lining is attached, such as by a line of stitching 29 which at the forward portion 30 may extend just ahead of the ends of slits 24. It will be understood, however, that the elastic assembly may be secured in position by a separate line of stitching or even by adhesive.

From the foregoing description it is apparent that the present invention provides a shoe of the pump type which is yieldable to a substantial degree at the instep and that such yieldability is imparted to the shoe without detracting from the appearance thereof. Accordingly shoes constructed in accordance with the present invention and embodying the built-in gore, as hereinbefore described, may be fitted to the feet with sufficient tightness that they will stayon but will possess sufficient yieldability that they will not bite into the foot at the instep to an extent such as to be uncomfortable.

Since it is apparent that many modifications of the present invention will present themselves to .those skilled in the art without departing from the spirit of this invention, it is to be understood that such modifications and the use of such individual features and subcombinations of features as do not depart from the spirit of this invention are, although not specifically described herein, contemplated by and within the scope of the appended claims.

Having thus described the invention, what is claimed is:

1. A' shoe of the kind described having a marginally continuous yielding exterior upper portion .constituting the throat, and an elastic member cooperating with said'upper portion arranged to retract the same, said elastic member arranged to extend into the opening so as to leave a substantially narrow resilient part above the normal throat line of the shoe.

2. A shoe of the kind described having an exterior upper portion continuing about the throat, a part of said upper portion being folded under and formed to yield at the fold, and means cooperating with said yielding portion arranged to retract the same lengthwise of the fold.

3. A pump comprising an upper having exterior quarter sections formed and arranged to provide an opening of regular marginal contour and extending about the throat thereof, and a narrow lengthwise yieldable roll integral with said quarter section and extending as a chord across the throat thereof, said roll merging with the .upper without interrupting the regular contour of the opening.

4. A pump comprising an upper formed to provide an elongated opening of regular contourhaving an arcuate throat line, an elastic member extending as a chord across said arcuate throat, and uppermaterial extending over the edge of said elastic member slightly beyond said throat line, said material being slit lengthwise of the opening where it turns over the edge of the elastic member so as to form a yieldable roll extending into the opening from the throat line.

5. In the art of making shoes the process comprising, forming an upper with a tabextending from the throat, folding the tab under the upper so that the line of fold extends as a chord across and close to the throat, slitting across the line "of fold, and applying an elastic, part chordally across the throat to resist yielding of the folded under tab a 6. A pump comprising an upper having exterior quarter sections formed and arranged to provide an opening of regular marginal contour and extending about the throat thereof, and a narrow lengthwise yieldable roll integral with said quarter section and extending as a chord across the throat thereof, said roll being provided with slits and merging with the upper without interrupting the regular contour of the opening. '7. A shoe comprising, an upper having exterior sections formed to provide an opening having a throat portion of regular marginal contour, and an elastic member attached to said upper section extending across the throat portion and exposed along a relatively narrow region therebeyond, said exposed portion merging into the contour of the opening adjacent the sides of the throat.

FREDERICK P. WAGNER. 

